2009年3月30日

Three fashion indicators under economic crisis

1. lipstick indicator 口红指数
One Depression-era pattern in female spending was the 25 percent increase in cosmetics sales. When a similar spike occurred during the economic doldrums of 1990 and 2001, this type of consumer behavior didn't elude Leonard Lauder, chairman of Estee Lauder Companies, which manufacture the cosmetic lines Estee Lauder, Clinique and MAC.

Lauder took particular interest in the rise in lipstick purchases. In the fall of 2001, when the economy buckled after the Sept. 11 attacks, Estee Lauder lipstick sales jumped 11 percent. That trend in discretionary (or nonessential) spending has become known as the lipstick indicator.

When women can't afford pricier indulgences, Lauder mused, lipstick offers a cheaper compromise. If a woman aches for a new Chanel handbag that far exceeds her budget, opting for a $30 tube of lipstick may feel like a thrifty shopping decision. Also, women who wear lipstick probably reapply at least a few times per day. Such instant gratification can ease the urge to shop more.


2. Hemline index 裙长指数
The shorter the skirt the stronger the economy, at least that's how the theory goes

In 1926 US economist George Taylor coined the theory of the hemline index. It was a kind of frock exchange using skirt lengths as a signal of the state of the economy .


Anyone applying this theory to the New York autumn/winter 2008 shows, would predict that we are hurtling towards a recession. Hemlines at Marc Jacobs, Jonathan Saunders and Phillip Lim were all resolutely below the knee.

Looking back over the decades it is easy to see why the connection has been made: a glimpse of leg gives a sense of independence and confidence; a sweeping skirt is a sign of modesty and austerity.



3. Hairstyle Index 发型指数
It is almost a century since the US economist George Taylor came up with the revolutionary "hemline index". Now the fashion world has finally offered up an alternative indicator of the country's economic state. The length of women's hair may no longer be seen as a result of the vagaries of fashion, but as an accurate barometer of the nation's wealth.

Japanese researchers have found that when economies are doing well, women wear their hair long; when there is a slump, they cut it short.

People enjoy fewer material pleasures in periods of recession, so want more visual pleasures, and there's more variation among short haircuts than long

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